GlobalClimbing

Since the beginning of January I’ve wanted to go back to Ticino. Four times I planned a trip, took time off work, gathered some friends to go, and then the weather was always crap. Huge storms coming in from the south made me look pretty sad. Now it is way too hot there and I had to look for other options. Suddenly I remembered: Frankenjura!

[The ultra-classic Slimline, 8a+, just a few meters to the right of the even more famous Action Directe.]

More than 1,5 years ago in the summer of 2011 I rediscovered Frankenjura, as I already posted in Oldies but Goldies. After this first Trip in May I went. My goal was to climb as many classics (or recommended routes by the locals). The outcome:

48 routes from 8a to 8b (some flash) in 23 days of climbing.

[Stein am Wasser, 8a means rock at the water, but was luckily dry that day]

Last weekend I also dug out some photos of this little trip in 2011 and thought some of them were worth sharing. At least, some of the routes shown on the pix are very recommendable.

To get you in the mood I'm gonna start with a few typical impressions:

[The typical landscape... Wouldn't expect such great climbing in here!]

 

[Home of the legendary Wolfgang Güllich]

 

[A butterfly enjoying the smell of my MAMMUT climbing shoes]

 

Ok, but before you get impatient, here are the climbing pics. Guess I dont have to say more...

 

[Medusa, 8a+/8b at Moby Dick]

 

[Mel doing some serious knee dropping in Dampfhammer, 6c+, Weissenstein]

 

[Famous Austrian Falco said: out of the dark, into the light! Velcro fly, 8a+]

 

[Gonzalo Valverde enjoys the mystic forest at Schlossbergwand]

 

[Spasswand means fun wall in German, but in Latin I would say: Nomen est omen! Blindschleiche, 8a]

 

[The flowers looked pretty, but the sky looked like rain...]

 

[... and it DID rain!...]

 

[...luckily there's enough overhanging stuff, like Hooligans, 8a at the Nankendorfer Block]

 

[... or Lügenbaron, 8a+ at a lonely little cave called Gerüchteküche]

 

[The last few wet steaks disappear at Anteldodrom]

 

[The typical Frankenjura approach! So close you could even crank the music in your car! Me doing Magic Soundwave, 8a+]

 

[One of the best power endurance 8a+ routs ever: Witchcraft!]

 

[Not bad either: The Flow, 8a at Vogelherdgrotte]

 

[The Rammstein fans among you will understand: Ich möcht kein Engel sein, 7a]

 

[L'eau rage, 8a at Holzgauer Wand is an excellent traverse along the lip of a roof]

 

[Don't you want to own a house like that in the Pottenstein valley?]

 

[The doctor said my vitamin D is low and I need more sun. Maybe I should stop hiding in caves...]

 

[Two ultimate classics: Onsighting the John Bachar classic Chasing the Train, 7c]

 

[...and Güllichs response Hitch-hike the Plane, 7c+]

 

[More fun at the Spasswand in Kopfschmerz-Generator, 8a]

 

[Mel checking her endurance on a sunny day at Weissenstein]

 

[Stick it! Trying to crimp during a short visit at the Schlossbergwand]

 

[Absolutely recommendable: Metamorphose, 8a+, Vergessene Welt]

Wait a minute! Didn't Michael happen to be around an take a video of the send? Lemme go find it real quick... Here it is!

 

[And it all ends where it began: Fugazi, 8a at Ringlerwand]